Temples of Bishnupur : Terracotta-decorated Heritage

My previous post was about the temple town of Bishnupur and one of its prominent landmarks, the Madanmohan Temple. But Bishnupur has a lot more to offer and therefore another post about this quite temple town of West bengal.

Bishnupur literally means ‘city of lord Vishnu’. The Malla kings of Bishnupur were patrons of Vaishavism (a major Hindu tradition focused on Lord Vishnu). Temples were their favorite form of architectural expression and terracotta (burnt clay) the preferred medium, as the stone was in short supply in the region. A plethora of brilliant brick temples was built during 17-18 century here.
 
Architect Priyanka Mangaonkar Vaiude, who studied the Bishnupur temples extensively for their architectural details, writes, ''These temples have elaborate representation of themes which are borrowed from the Puranas. Hence, these temple decorations were also acting as a medium to educate common people about our culture and traditions. Most of the decorations are typically Gupta in style. Largeness of conception, the dramatic vigor, and the liveliness of the pictures depicted on bricks and plaques stand for the vividness of wall paintings and frescoes, the dearth of which is compensated by these pictures on bricks and plaques.”

Ms. Priyanka Mangaonkar—a specialist in brick technology—further wrote, ''Studying from the numerous ruined temples it can be observed that the brick core of the temples generally consist of well laid horizontal brick courses. Vaults and domes are also created with bricks laid as stretchers. In arches, bricks are cut to form tapering voussoirs. Curved layers of brickwork are employed to create vaults as well as swelling contours of temple cornices and roofs. Sometimes bricks are laid diagonally to decorate supporting arches and pendentives.’’

A ‘voussoir’ is a wedge-shaped or tapered stone used to construct an arch. A ‘pendentive’ is a curved triangle of vaulting formed by the intersection of a dome with its supporting arches.
 
Bengal had a scarcity of stones; as a result Bishnupur temples were mainly built with coarse-grained laterite and bricks made of red-clay. The basic construction material for the temples here was the local red soil. Out of the red clay terracotta tiles were made. The tiles were ornamentated with scenes from Hindu epics like the Bhagawata, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. Various stories from these epics were artistically depicted. These terracotta tiles were then fixed on the walls of the structures built with bricks. The architecture of Bishnupur temples generally resembles the design of local huts.

The temples of Bishnupur are categorised as ‘ratnas’ or ‘gems’, a popular style of Bengal/Bangla architecture. In this style, number of ‘pinnacles’ or ‘Shikhara’ are important. One-pinnacled temples are termed as ‘Eka-ratna’, Five-pinnacled ones as ‘Pancha-ratna' and nine-pinnacled ones as ‘Nava-ratna’.

RASMANCHA

This unique edifice was built in 1600 AD by the King Bir Hambhir. The Rasmancha stands on a raised laterite plinth with a Pyramidal Superstructure. It is an impressive square building with a small shrine in the centre and three-corridor galleries with vaulted roofs enclosing it. The structure has only a single chamber, the sanctum sanctorum, with an elongated tower, surrounded by hut shaped turrets.

View of the Rasmancha from back

The Rasmancha stands on a square platform of size 24.5m X 24.5m of Laterite blocks. The square foundation is 1.5m high. The main structure stands on this platform and is built of red-soil bricks. It is 12.5m high. The roof of this terracotta masterpiece has a pyramidal summit and is supported by 40 pillars and arches. This immensely significant and cultural masterpiece is one of its kind in the country. The building was used  to display all the local Radha-Krishna idols in public during the Ras Festival. This annual festival was held till 1932.

 

PANCHRATNA or THE SHYAM RAI TEMPLE

The Shyam Rai (Pancharatna) Temple was built by King Raghunatha Singh in 1643. It is a five-pinnacled temple. It is considered as oldest surviving structure of its kind in West Bengal. The edifice with its five towers, the central and tallest one surrounded by one each in four corners, stands magnificent in the midst of a lush lawn.

 

Each of the four sides of the temple has triple multi-cusped arched gateways, leading to the sanctum around which runs a well paved circumambulatory path. This is the only temple in Bishnupur in which we find some influence of Islamic architecture in its curved ceiling. Here we also find fine figurines and floral motifs. Its exterior walls are emblazoned with a variety of magnificent terracotta panels portraying Krishna Leela, episodes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata. Entry is prohibited and one can't see the interior walls. A brilliant 'Rasa mandala' motif here is unique.

A part of the upper portion of the temple (front) 

The ‘Ras-Mandala’ or the ‘Ras-Chakra’ : A unique square panel depicting Rasleela 

JOR-BANGLA or KESTORAI TEMPLE

The Jor-Bangla or Kestorai temple was built by Malla king Raghunatha Singha in c.1655. It is one of the best structures in Bishnupur. Situated near the Panchratna Temple, it follows the jor-bangle style of architecture. Jor-Bangla type of temple consists of two inter-connected thatched roof like structures. The inter-connected thatched roofs here are crowned with a turret. The base of the temple is a square of size 11.8m X 11.48m, and the height above the platform is 10.7m.

This temple is considered as one of the finest example of Bengal terracotta art and decorated with numerous panels depicting a wide range of topics. Panels of ships and boats are quiet common. There are also a profusion of exquisite panels from the two great epics ‘Ramyana’ and ‘Mahabharata’. Other panels exhibit scenes of royal hunting, musicians and dancers along with floral and geometrical patterns.

RADHASHYAM TEMPLE

The Radhashyam Temple is situated just next to the Jor-Bangla Temple. It dates back to 1758 and was constructed by the Malla King Chaitanya Singha. This ‘Eka-ratna’ (single pinnacled) temple is built of laterite stone and contains lime stone stucco decoration. The temple is enclosed with high walls. The entrance consists of a triple domed Islamic style gateway. This temple has an elaborate ‘tulsi mancha’. The temple has a unique shaped Ratna (Pinnacle) on its top. Some idols of deities belonging to a few dilapidated temples are kept here and are worshiped together.

The triple domed Islamic style entrance of the Radhashyam Temple

The temple with its elaborate ‘tulsi mancha’

Idols of deities worshiped in the temple

MRINMOYEE TEMPLE

In c.994 Malla king Jagat Singha shifted his capital from Pradamnapur to Bishnupur as Bishnupur was surrounded by a hilly terrain and provided a better geographical security. The temple of Mrinmoyee (dedicated to Goddess Durga) was established in c.997. The name ‘Mrinmoyee’ means ‘anything that is made out of mud’. Temple’s old structure no longer exists. The idol of Mrinmoyee (Goddess Durga made of mud) is housed in a new structure, situated opposite the Radhashyam Temple, but the tradition of worship continued. The oldest annual Durga Puja of West Bengal is performed here, ranged about 1019 years.

RADHA LALJIU (LALJI) TEMPLE

Lalji temple with its outer peripheri

The Temple with the Tulsi Mancha

The Radha Laljiu Temple was built exactly 100 years earlier than the Radhashyam Temple. Built by the Malla king Bir Singha in 1658. This single Shikara (Eka-ratna) style structure is surrounded by a big boundary and is considered as the finest laterite stone temple in Bishnupur. Dedicated to Krishna and Radha, the square structure stands on a raised plinth, having a roof slightly sloping on four sides. The temple used to have exquisite ornamental details on its wall, but now only some traces of this can be seen on parts of the arched openings. 

NANDLAL TEMPLE 

Nandalal temple is an ‘Eka-ratna’ style temple and was built in the second half of seventeenth century. Built with rust coloured laterite stone, it has a tower resting on a square building with the curved roof typical of Bengal-type. There are covered porches on all four sides around the innermost sanctuary where the idol was kept, and there are three arched openings at each of the two adjacent sides of the temple. It almost looks like more famous Madan Mohan temple, but it is smaller and much less decorated.

RADHAGOVINDA TEMPLE

Built by King Krishna Singha in 1729, the Radhagovinda Temple is another ‘Eka-ratna’ temple built with laterite. It is situated right opposite to the Radhamadhav temple. The square structure stands on a raised plinth and is about 12.4m on each side and 10.7m in height. The temple consists of a square lower storey in thatched-hut fashion of Bengal Temple architecture with a curvilinear tower above it. Its facade is profusely carved.

A beautiful stone chariot is also present in the temple compound. Traces of bas-relief carvings of geometric pattern and human figures including mythological characters, originally applied with stucco works can be seen.

KALACHAND TEMPLE

Kalachand Temple is special for its towering pinnacle. It was built in 1656 by the Malla king Raghunath Singh (who also built Jor-Bangla and the Shyamrai temples). This design of the lower storey of this ‘Eka-ratna’ laterite temple is based on the thatched hut style of Bengal. The square base of the temple is 11.1m X 11.1m and its height is 9.2m above the platform. There is a circumambulatory corridor around the main shrine. The structure has three arched openings on each of the four sides. This is probably the earliest 'Eka-ratna' temple in Bishnupur. It was once covered with stucco decoration, only traces of that elaborate decoration remains now.

RADHAMADHAV TEMPLE

The Radhamadhav Temple lays enroute to the Kalachand Temple. It is about 11.1m on each side and 9.2m in height. It looked very similar to the Kalachand Temple. Differentiating between them would have been difficult if not for the Shikara of the Radhamadhav. The exterior walls depict stories from the Puranas. The Radhamadhav Temple has a Kirtanshala as well. This Eka-ratna temple is built of laterite and consists of a square lower storey with curved roof symbolic of Bengal Temple architecture and a north Indian sikhara on top. The entrance has three arched gateways. Unlike most other temples of Bishnupur, only on two sides of the temple there are three arched openings.

The temple was built by Churamony Devi, queen of Krishna Singha in C.1737 AD (some claim it was built by Shiramoni Devi, one of the wives of the king Bir Singha). The temple has exquisite ornamentation particularly in its front wall depicting Puranic episodes, Dasavatara, Krishna-Lila, animal, various symbols etc.

GROUP OF TEMPLES (JOR MANDIRS)

Popularly known as Jor Mandir (pair of temples), it is actually a complex of three Eka-Ratna temples: Two big temples of same size and a small one. These ‘Eka-Ratna’ or ‘one-pinnacled’ rust-coloured laterite temples were built by Malla King Krishna Singh in 1726. The big temple has a square base of 11.8m X 11.8m and a height of 12.8m above a low platform. The roofs of all three temples are typical Bengali ‘chala’ type with a tower or ‘sikhara’. Most of the art works or decorations on the temple-walls are almost vanished.

Part of the Jor Mandir (pair of temples) from a distance

Gate of the Old Fort: Patther Darwaja

Further reading:

http://www.chitrolekha.com/V1/n2/04_terracotta_Architecture_of_Bankura_technology.pdf

http://chitrolekha.com/temples-of-bengal-material-style-and-technological-evolution/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bishnupur,_Bankura

https://thewire.in/63923/terracotta-tales-entangled-histories-of-bhakti-violence-and-empire-from-early-modern-bengal/