The Jain Caves of Ellora

A senior friend of mine once called Ellora ‘‘a series of paintings made out of stones.’’ After visiting the famous caves I can’t agree more. Even with a crowd around, I could feel certain calm within. Thoughts took me back to centuries in past and compelled me to think about the faceless artisans who toiled hard year after years to create such wonderful legacy for future generations.

The Ellora caves—locally known as ‘Verul Leni’—are situated on an ancient trade route from Paithan (near Aurangabad, Maharashtra) to Ujjain (Madhya Pradesh). 

The caves must had been created between 6th to 10th century AD and represents an unique culmination of more than a thousand years of the rock-cutting tradition representing the Buddhist, Hindu and Jain religions. The coexistence of structures from three different religions reminds us of the prevalent religious tolerance of India and also presents a spectacular visual representation. It is believed that the carving work of Ellora caves began around 550 AD, about the same time the Ajanta Caves (100km northeast) were abandoned.

Ellora Caves were designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1983.

34 caves were cut out of the western face of an outcrop of the Sahyadari hills. The caves of the three faiths (Buddhist 1 to 12, Hindu 13 to 29 and Jain 30-34) were built in proximity and during overlapping periods.

K.A. Neelkanta Shatry, one of the best known historians who wrote extensively about South India, writes in his book ‘Ancient History of India’: ‘‘The Jaina caves of Ellora (800-950 AD) bring to an end for all practical purposes, the rock cut architecture of India, whose gradual evolution we can trace from the days of Ashoka. They were gradually superseded by the structured temples i.e. temples built by means of dressed stone masonry which is undoubtedly the more normal and rational mode of construction and technique had sufficiently developed.’’

The Jain caves (Cave 30 to 34) of Ellora dates from the late 800s to 900s and are situated about 2 km north of Hindu & Buddhist caves. The carvings and paintings here reflect the distinctive Jain philosophy and tradition. These caves contain examples of exceptionally detailed artworks with elaborate decoration. Some caves had rich paintings in the ceilings, fragments of which are still visible.

The most notable of the group is Cave 32, known as the 'Indra Sabha' (Indra's Assembly Hall). This cave is also called 'Chota Kailasa' as it is a much smaller version of the more famous Kailasanath temple (Cave 16 of Ellora). The bottom level is plain but the upper floor has intricate carvings, including an exquisite lotus design on the ceiling. The profusely decorated pillars are awesome. Two Tirthankaras guard the entrance to the central shrine. On the right is the naked Gomatesvara, meditating deeply. The cave has representations of the Jain Tirthankaras: Mahavira, Parsvanatha and Gomatesvara. Gomatesvara is believed to have stood still in penance and meditation for so long that vines have grown up his legs and animals, snakes and scorpions crawl around his feet. Few surviving murals on the ceiling of the caves 32 and 33 are quite exceptional. In cave 32 one can see a magnificently carved image of Ambika (a Jain goddess or Yaksi, a dedicated attendant of Neminath, the 22nd Tirthankar), with the mango tree in fruit above her.

Cave 33, known as the Jagannatha Sabha, is similar in style to Cave 32. These caves mark the end of the great tradition of rock-cut temples in India. It is still not understood why this is called the Jagannatha Sabha, however this name has been spelt over generations.

Many visitors have been mesmerized by the beauty of carvings and paintings of these caves. Yet, as enchanting as these are, they leave us somewhat unsatisfied; longing for more and that is the true charm of any timeless art.

May be someday, I will return to sock again this captivating beauty.

Useful links:
http://newbooks.asia/review/carving-devotion
http://www.kamit.jp/03_jaina/2_ellora/ell_eng.htm
http://www.brill.com/carving-devotion-jain-caves-ellora
http://shodhganga.inflibnet.ac.in/bitstream/10603/75375/10/10_chapter%202.pdf